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Swords thread

Morell

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Dang, just few swings with Masamune and the blade is moving in the handle from side to side. Have to stop. It still holds together, but trying to swing around more could be dangerous. If the handle detaches, I'll reconnect it with resin instead of glue, but don't want to risk any harm. Whatever, still will be great with the costume.
 

borbponderer

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Dang, just few swings with Masamune and the blade is moving in the handle from side to side. Have to stop. It still holds together, but trying to swing around more could be dangerous. If the handle detaches, I'll reconnect it with resin instead of glue, but don't want to risk any harm. Whatever, still will be great with the costume.
I wonder how the tang is fixed inside? Perhaps you could strengthen that somehow? Or is it just glue? I've had some luck with metal epoxies, for example JB Weld, but there are others.
 

Morell

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I wonder how the tang is fixed inside? Perhaps you could strengthen that somehow? Or is it just glue? I've had some luck with metal epoxies, for example JB Weld, but there are others.
I think it's only glued inside. I'm thinking myself, how to strengthen it. Once it falls apart I'll see how it was connected. Need to see to make plans on how to help that blade. I honestly doubt that there is a hole for proper connecting with handle... though if the blade and handle are good enough, I could ask some smiths around if it could be possible to drill hole into blade part to attach it with the handle traditional way as katana is supposed to be. There is at least one company that makes katanas here in Czechia, so worth asking them. Might even still be cheaper than buying another blade.

Wouldn't shame from doing that myself, but I don't have tools needed.
 

borbponderer

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Is the inside of the handle plastic or metal? Either way if you can clean it up and rough it up, and same with the tang, maybe even use a file, metal epoxy will hold it as good as anything, short of actually welding it, or extending the tang with a weld. You don't need brand name metal epoxy, I have seen stuff from china that looks pretty good. Epoxy resin with metal in it. It holds really well and is easy to work with and file or sand with basic tools.

I know the price of things everywhere have gotten crazy, and I don't know your budget, or even what the sword market is like where you live, but over here you can get a real forged carbon steel blade from China without spending crazy money. Even at the bottom end of the market you should be able to get a sturdy and reliable blade. Just make sure it has a full tang. Higher quality fittings, real rayskin and leather wrap for the Tsuka etc can push the price up. As can clay tempering with a real hamon line. A lot of the extra features are unnecessary for a straightforward practice blade. Unless you are going crazy with cutting tatami mats or other heavy use you should be fine.
 

Morell

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Metal epoxy is a great idea. It apparently doesn't cost much... will definitely try that. For that work I should have everything needed. Thanks!

I agree about prices, blades here are mostly from China anyway, this one too... it was 70€... well, I got what I paid for, I guess. But I don't regret it.
 

borbponderer

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Metal epoxy is a great idea. It apparently doesn't cost much... will definitely try that. For that work I should have everything needed. Thanks!

I agree about prices, blades here are mostly from China anyway, this one too... it was 70€... well, I got what I paid for, I guess. But I don't regret it.
Back when I bought my swords that amount of money could get you a very basic forged steel katana if you were willing to shop around. Even now I'd imagine doubling that amount could get you something worth owning. Or look at even look into Iaito if you're not concerned with cutting, but want something that looks nice and will withstand practice, and will not maim you if you screw up.
 

Morell

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Even buying swords is an experience and a learning curve. Bought 3 blades so far and definitely learned something.

I remember seeing Iaito training katana and approx. for 140€, so your guess is quite correct. If I had more space, I wouldn't mind starting a katana collection. I was already considering one if iaito training blades, decided against mostly because the black katana can serve me well enough for that practice for now.

And I'm very hesitant about buying sharp blade. I cut myself with literally every knife I have. Never serious, only once had to get stiches, but I don't want to try my luck with razor sharp blade.
 

borbponderer

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Even buying swords is an experience and a learning curve. Bought 3 blades so far and definitely learned something.

I remember seeing Iaito training katana and approx. for 140€, so your guess is quite correct. If I had more space, I wouldn't mind starting a katana collection. I was already considering one if iaito training blades, decided against mostly because the black katana can serve me well enough for that practice for now.

And I'm very hesitant about buying sharp blade. I cut myself with literally every knife I have. Never serious, only once had to get stiches, but I don't want to try my luck with razor sharp blade.
I'm kind of a crazy nutcase so all my blades are live blades with the exception of the cold steel bokken. I just never really developed that strong fear of blades. I wouldn't consider any of my katana "razor" sharp but they don't need to be. It's kind of one of the myths about them. It's the cutting technique and momentum of the blade that does the damage.

I've not tried to sharpen any of them either. It's harder to get a consistency on longer blades and I'm afraid of wrecking the edge. I might have a go with a leather strop some time though. It's really quite a different world, the world of swords and the world of knives. A lot of different terminology, but of course much of the underlying knowledge is transferable

I'm always cutting myself as well. Usually just small nicks. Still got a clear scar on the tip of my index finger from screwing around with razor blades as a kid. That bled like crazy and I came close to fainting.
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Metal epoxy is a great idea. It apparently doesn't cost much... will definitely try that. For that work I should have everything needed. Thanks!
All you really need is the metal epoxy and some denatured alcohol to clean up. Important to get rid of all the oil. Sandpaper and files are always worth having anyway.

Don't buy the absolute cheapest files cheap shit you can find because they might be cheap shit soft metal, but you don't have to break the bank either. I've also got a set of decent needle files from ebay, paid around £6.50 for them, and are incredibly handy for all kinds of smaller jobs. Always good to have tools. It's it's own rabbit hole 🐇
 
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Morell

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All you really need is the metal epoxy and some denatured alcohol to clean up. Important to get rid of all the oil. Sandpaper and files are always worth having anyway.

Don't buy the absolute cheapest files cheap shit you can find because they might be cheap shit soft metal, but you don't have to break the bank either. I've also got a set of decent needle files from ebay, paid around £6.50 for them, and are incredibly handy for all kinds of smaller jobs. Always good to have tools. It's it's own rabbit hole 🐇
I have
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. 420 Stainless steel the cover says. Should serve well. Sculpting stuff for cosplay can be very creative job. A lot of improvising....

Once the handle goes off, I'll re-glue it. Found a good metal epoxy with a lot of good rep and 45 minutes of working time. Will buy it next week. No time this week. Though I have to buy more of technology grade alcohol, the bottle I have, is nearly empty.
 

borbponderer

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Quite a few knives are made of 420 steel, even the legendary Buck 110. A lot of it is in the heat streat. Those sculpting tools look useful. The pick reminds me of one of the dental picks I bought in a set some time ago(also very useful). As long as you can get rid of the old glue and create some "tooth" on the surface for the epoxy to bond to you will be golden.
 
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